Backpacking Olympic National Park: The North Coast Trail

Why the North Coast Trail?

A few years ago before I moved to Washington I had the chance to backpack the South Coast Trail in Olympic National Park. This trip changed my opinion on a few things. First, it made me realize that backpacking doesn’t have to be miserable. Second, it gave me an appreciation for coastal Washington. The beaches that you hike along aren’t accessible to day hikers, making the trip feel extra special. When I sat down this past January to plan out my 2024 Washington State bucket list, the number one item on my list was to backpack on the Washington Coast.

After doing some research, I decided that I would try the North Coast Trail this time around. Luckily I was able to complete a large section of this trail, and I’m already planning my next trip to complete the coastal trail. This blog post is going to go over everything you need to know about hiking the north section of the North Coast Trail. This will include the trip planning and trail descriptions for Shi Shi Beach to Sand Point.

Planning to Backpack in Olympic National Park

There are a few things that make planning a backpacking trip in Olympic National Park tricky. The following information is all important to understand before planning to backpack in Olympic National Park.

Olympic National Park Permit Information

The first is that you’ll need to purchase permits for all of the trail in the park. This includes the North Coast Trail. I got permits for the North Cost and the South Coast only a few weeks out from my trips. That being said, I wouldn’t recommend doing it this way. If you have your plans set in stone earlier I recommend buying the permits in advance.

To purchase permits for Olympic National Park, you’ll need to visit the official parks website. The permits are very easy to purchase via the portal. You’ll need to create a free account and then you can easily select what trail you will be hiking. From there, you’ll input how many people are in your group along with how many days you’ll be backpacking.

Wildlife in Olympic National Park

This remote area of Washington is a top destination for anyone hoping to encounter wildlife. Bears are the major concern when it comes to backpacking in the Olympics. It’s important to practice bear safety throughout your time in the park to ensure that you don’t have an problems. Bear canisters are required for all backpackers and can be rented for free at the Port Angeles ranger station. If you’re unsure of how to prevent or respond to bears in the backcountry you can read about the top tips on the official Olympic National Park website.

You might get the chance to see elk, otters, whales, and many more things while you’re in Olympic National Park. I have completed two backpacking trips on the Olympic coast and each time I am amazed by the wildlife i’ve seen. A huge highlight for me is that during each backpacking trip I saw whales! During the first trip in April my group saw a pod of Orcas and during my second trip in July we saw grey whales. I’ve also seen sting ray, tide pools, otters, deer, and elk.

Tide Consideration on Coastal Trails

One aspect of the North and South coast trails that is unique to any other trip I’ve planned is the importance of reading the tide tables. These coastal Washington trails have sections that can only be crossed at low tide, and if you fail to plan around this it can cause serious issues. While you’re planning out how far you’ll hike each day you should first look at how many of these low tide areas you’ll be walking through. Once you know the distance you’re walking you can look at your tide table and start hiking when the tide is at or below the recommended level.

You can find up to date information on the Olympic National Park tide tables here. For my trips, I like to print a copy of the tide tables and the maps for each group member and place those in a ziplock bag. I always pack more than one copy and ensure that it’s protected from the rain.

Shuttle Logistics for the North Coast Trail

I’ve set up a lot of shuttles through my time kayaking and rafting. That being said, the logistics for shuttle never get easier. Heres the basic rule: GET YOUR ENTIRE GROP TO THE TRAILHEAD YOU’LL BE HIKING OUT OF. LOAD AS MANY PEOPLE INTO AS FEW CARS AS POSSIBLE. DRIVE FROM THE END OF THE TRAIL TO THE BEGINNING. AT THE END, SHUTTLE BACK TO THE TOP.

I know that sounds simple, but trust me something always goes wrong while planning shuttle logistics. With the trail that my group did, we had to backtrack slightly to get from our last campsite at South Sand Point back to the Ozette Triangle Trailhead. There are limited options for where you can hike out, and this is what made the most sense for us.

What I Pack For Backpacking in Olympic National Park

If you’re a beginner or haven’t done a lot of backpacking in Washington state, I recommend you check out my detailed packing list here!

Packing for backpacking is something that a lot of people struggle with. Once you start going more often you’ll quickly learn what you really need and what you can pass on packing. Until you get to that point, you might over or under pack. Below is a list of items that I bring when i’m backpacking on the coast in Olympic National Park.

The Essentials:

• Backpacking bag
• Sleeping pad
• Sleeping bag
• Sleeping bag liner (only in the winter)
• Backpacking stove
• Backpacking cook set
• Knife
• Water filter (I love to pair the Platypus squeeze filter paired with this amazon bag)
• Bear canister
• Bear spray
• Hiking shoes
• Hiking polls (They are VERY helpful when navigating slippery tide pools with a heavy bag)
• Camp / water shoes (I prefer Chacos or Crocs)
• Backpacking seat

Important Safety Information

When I was planning my July 2024 trip I only had 3 night open for camping. Since the entire North Coast Route is over 30 miles long on slippery and rough terrain, I decided to only do a portion of the trail. My group started at the Shi Shi beach trailhead and walked south until we got to South Sand Point. We had plenty of time to do this section in 3 nights and were able to do a lot of exploration along the trail.

Important Information About the Trail

Shi Shi to South Sandpoint mileage: ~ 19 miles

This trail has some difficult features that i’ll be upfront about. Hiking from the Point of the Arches to Seafield creek is a difficult journey. There are many tide pool areas that you have to walk through that are VERY slippery and take more time that typical hiking. When you’re not on the slippery areas, you’re either climbing up the overland trail or climbing over large sharp boulders along the shore. The overland trails on this section of the North Coast Trail are steep and most require the use of ropes. There are ropes tied to nearby trees that you have to trust in order to get up and down some of these steep hills. I recommend bringing a lightweight pair of gloves to protect your hands from the ropes and the sharp rocks in this area.

The same area from Point of the Arches to Seafield Creek is a very important area to keep a close eye on your tide chart. There are multiple areas along this section of the trail where you could find yourself in trouble if the tide gets near 5-6 feet. Start hiking a few hours before low tide and don’t hesitate to take a long break if the tide is getting too high. There are a few beaches along the trail where you can wait for the tide to get to its highest and start going back out before you begin again. Stay on the cautious side during this section and don’t continue unless you have plenty of time.

There is a river crossing that you need to make a low tide if you’re crossing the Ozette river. You’ll need to consult your tide chart and make sure that you cross this river when the tide is below 4 feet. It’s a very straightforward crossing as long as you’re there at low tide. I would recommend bringing a pair of shoes to cross in, but if you don’t have any you’ll be fine. There’s no large rocks to navigate here, it’s mostly sand and small pebbles or shells.

The tidal restrictions for the entire North Coast Trail are shown in the chart below.

5′	2.4 mi north of the Rialto Beach Trailhead
4′	4.3 mi north of the Rialto Beach Trailhead, at Cape Johnson
5.5′	5.1 mi north of the Rialto Beach Trailhead
6′	7.9 mi south of the Ozette Ranger Station Trailhead
5′	4.9 mi south of the Ozette Ranger Station Trailhead
5′ & 4′	0.7 mi south of the Ozette River
4′- 6′	Multiple tidal restrictions between Point of the Arches & Seafield Creek** Start this trek 1-2 hrs before low tide and make a strong push to the end. If the tide is coming in you can wait at a beach along your route until the tide is going back out.

The North Coast Trail Itinerary: Shi Shi Beach to South Sand Point

Below is the itinerary my group followed for this section of the North Coast Route in Olympic National Park.

Day 1 –

• 9AM: Meet at the Port Angeles ranger station for free bear canister rentals. Pack bear canisters and bags.
• 10AM: Drive from Port Angeles Ranger Station to Ozette Triangle Trailhead
• 11AM: Arrive at Ozette Triangle, leave for the Shi Shi Beach Trailhead.
• 12PM: Stop in Neah Bay to purchase the REQUIRED Makah recreation pass, then arrive at the Shi Shi beach overnight parking ** You cannot park overnight at the Shi Shi beach trailhead. Instead, you’ll see signs for parking .6 miles before the trailhead on the east side of the road. Check in with the man in the house, pay, and you’re good to go.
• 1PM: Start hiking to Shi Shi beach. Look for camping once you get to the beach. I recommend going as far south as possible and camping near the Point of the Arches.
• ** There are a two streams where you can filter water near the south end of Shi Shi beach. Don’t be alarmed if the color has a dark rust tint to it, this is common along the coast.

Day 2 –

• Hike from Point of the Arches to the North or South Ozette River Camping area. Do this during low tide.
• ** This day is the crux of the trip. Be aware of the tide getting too high for necessary crossings. Also be prepaired for some very steep overland trails.
• ** There aren’t many great streams to refill water along this trail. I recommend starting your day with 2 liters of water and refilling when you get to the Ozette river.

Day 3 –

• Hike from the Ozette river area to South Sand Point Campground.
• ** This is a very mild hiking day compared to day 2. There isn’t much to worry about here.
• ** Fill up your water at Cape Alvala

Day 4 –

Backtrack slightly from South Sand Point camping area back to Sand Point. From here, you’ll be able to take the trail back to the Ozette Triangle Trailhead. And just like that you’re back at your car!

This itinerary gives you more than enough time to explore tide pools, take some amazing photos, and relax on the beach. It’s well within many peoples capabilities to hike more mile than we did on this trip, but it was fun to have some time to unwind. I also enjoyed that we had one day where the hiking was difficult. Day 2 of this trip had many areas with steep, slippery, and intimidating terrain. Other than that day, the hiking was mild and along the sandy shores of Washington.

Conclusion

The North Coast Trail is among my favorite backpacking trips in Washington state. It’s great for active people who are looking for a slight challenge but still want time to relax. Take your time when considering the hazards and logistics that come along with hiking along the coast in Olympic National Park, and have a great time exploring!